Is Glycolic Acid a Good Acne Treatment? Here’s What You Need to Know

It's frustrating dealing with acne, especially if the condition is persistent and quick home remedies are not cutting it anymore. The search for a solution will bring you to exfoliants that claim to target flare-ups.

But while the active acne subsides, the lasting effects of discoloration (like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) can cause distress and impact one's self-confidence immensely. Here's where glycolic acid comes in.

Glycolic acid is touted for its prowess to exfoliate the skin, boosting benefits for cell turnover and actively fading acne scars. Let's explore its benefits for acne in detail through this article.

Keynotes:

• Glycolic acid is a high-performing exfoliant in the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family.
• It helps in increasing cell turnover, cleansing the dead skin cells and boosting collagen synthesis.
• Begin with a glycolic acid product of lower concentration followed by moisturizer to reduce instances of dryness or irritation.
• Always apply sunscreen with SPF 50 daily to support the healing process of the skin.

Glycolic acid is a well-known alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), commonly used in topical serums and professional chemical peels as an exfoliant. It is water soluble and derived from natural sources, such as sugarcane, cantaloupes, pineapples, and beets.

The active ingredient sports a smaller molecular size in the extended AHA family. Hence, it can penetrate the skin more efficiently, reaching the deeper layers of dermis (at higher concentrations) compared to exfoliants with larger molecule size. Due to this potency, a misuse of the agent can cause complications such as skin sensitivity, irritation, hyperpigmentation and redness.

However, in lower concentrations guided by a skin specialist, can boost glycolic acid’s efficacy in eliminating dead skin cells from your basal layer. This results in enhanced texture of skin, reduction in acne, fewer fine lines and a glowing, even skin tone that radiates from within.

Read more: Professional Treatment for Hyperpigmentation

Yet the question remains, “Is glycolic acid good for acne? Yes, compared to other acids, glycolic acid takes a multifaceted approach for treating flare-ups and acne scars.

1. It Supports Exfoliation

   Being one of the most sought-after solutions for chemical peeling, glycolic acid no doubt has the ability to exfoliate the skin. The active does so by triggering apoptosis (cell death) and weakening the bonds between dead skin cells in stratum corneum, the outermost part of the skin. This initiates the process of efficient cleansing of the debris, unveiling smooth skin underneath.

2. It Increases Cell Turnover

   With topical application, the active sheds the dead skin cells giving way to healthy skin. Based on your application and frequency of glycolic acid onto your skin, this cell turnover cycle continues gradually improving the texture of the skin and evening out any discolouration and pigmentation.

3. It Boosts Collagen Stimulation

   Studies also suggest that the property of glycolic acid penetrating deep into the dermis can also help promote collagen synthesis in the skin. Being a crucial protein for skin structure, a surge in collagen production results in improved skin structure and elasticity.
   Moreover, glycolic acid can also potentially reduce the appearance of wrinkles and early fine lines for a youthful looking, rejuvenated skin.

4. It has Antibacterial Properties

   AHA is also antibacterial in nature, which is one of the reasons that makes glycolic acid good for acne. Glycolic acid helps inhibit the effects of Cutibacterium acne, which is believed to be one of the bacterial aggressors that leads to breakouts. By doing so, the exfoliant can help reduce the bacterial load on the skin and curb recurring blemishes.

5. It Helps Unclog Pores

   While salicylic acid enters the pores due to its lipophilicity, the exfoliation tendencies of glycolic acid help in eliminating the dead skin cell buildup, dirt and debris, which can contribute to acne formation. In doing so, the active ingredient can potentially unclog pores and minimise the occurrence of blackheads, whiteheads and acne lesions.

6. It May Reduce Inflammation

   Glycolic acid serum formulated in lower concentrations can potentially relay anti-inflammatory benefits to symptoms related to acne like eliminating acne-causing bacteria and UVB-related irritation. However, the topical agent may also increase skin sensitivity if not supplemented with sunscreen use.

7. It Lightens PIH spots

   One of the concurrent complaints of individuals struggling with acne is the appearance of pigmentation once the lesions have healed. These post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation patches can be more pesky to treat than mild acne scars.
   Topical glycolic acid serum works great for these deep-seated acne scars by dispersing the melanin in the skin. This, along with exfoliation, results in skin that is visibly brighter and even toned.

Exfoliants, when not handled appropriately, can potentially cause irritation, swelling and more. The below step-by-step list can help guide you through the journey of how to use glycolic acid cream properly for treating acne and scars:

Step 1: Select The Right Product

Before investing in a high-quality glycolic acid, it is crucial to settle on a formulation. Topical glycolic acid serums for acne scars on the market are curated between 5-10% concentrations, for ensuring gradual benefits without irritating the skin. Hence, it is best to start with products with lower concentrations at home, such as serums or wash off treatments like gel-based glycolic face wash.

Step 2: Run a Patch Test

Prior to starting any new skincare ingredient, it is always recommended to test it out on a small area of skin. You may apply it to your inner forearm and watch the patch for 24-48 hours for any signs of adverse reactions.

Step 3: Application and Frequency

Once you settle on a product that suits your skin, you may begin applying it to your face 2-4 times in a week. Take a pump of the product and gently massage it onto your washed, dry skin, avoiding eyes and mouth. Immediately, follow the active with a moisturizer to promote hydration and mitigate dryness.

Step 4: Never Miss Sunscreen

Every morning is a new day, booming with opportunities and UV radiation. Curb photosensitivity and aggravated hyperpigmentation by religiously applying sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher every day. This not only prevents inflammation but also boosts the health of your skin.

What is a skincare routine, if not a place to mix and match actives to ensure a well-rounded skin health? However, when it comes to pairing actives with GA, one needs a structured approach:

Layering it with other Exfoliants
We have often seen glycolic acid or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) paired with beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs). This is due to their diverse mechanisms, which deliver brightening effects and acne-treating benefits to the skin.
That said, combining these acids recklessly may run the risk of over-exfoliation, exacerbating your hyperpigmentation. To avoid this, look for a high-quality product with AHA, BHA and PHA complex with a lower concentration to better suit the skin.

Retinoids and Glycolic Acid
Much like glycolic acid, even retinoids (both prescription and topical) are sought out due to their anti-aging and anti-acne benefits. Incorporating the two actives in your skin care routine can boost collagen synthesis and promote an even tone. That said, both glycolic acid and retinol are potent exfoliants and hence should be spaced out from each other in terms of frequency for best results.

Combine with Soothing Ingredients
The only way to layer your glycolic acid is with a calming active such as niacinamide or hyaluronic acid. While niacinamide can target inflammation and redness, hyaluronic acid can improve barrier function and boost hydration. Utilizing either of the two with the active can help mitigate potential irritation and dryness.

• Always begin with a low concentration glycolic acid product (>10%) to ensure your skin grows accustomed to the formula.
• Space out your usage and avoid over exfoliation.
• You may use gel-based glycolic face wash every day at night but avoid on days when using retinol.
• Glycolic acid serum for acne scars should be used 2-3 times per week.
• Make sure to moisturise after each application to avoid irritation and dryness.
• In cases of redness, blisters or increased hyperpigmentation, discontinue use and seek consultation from a dermatologist.
• Wear sunscreen daily diligently to safeguard your photosensitive skin from the UV radiation.

So, is glycolic acid good for acne scars? Yes, and its properties aren’t limited to simply treating hyperpigmentation. Glycolic acid can be a valuable asset in your skincare routine to cleanse dead skin cells, promote cell turnover and treat acne. A little care, sunscreen and combining layering glycolic acid with other soothing actives can make your journey towards smooth, healthy skin a reality.

1. Does glycolic acid treat acne scars?

   Yes, glycolic acid creams or products can prove to be helpful for treating certain acne scars such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The active helps in exfoliating the skin cells at the surface of the skin and thereby stimulating cell turnover. This process helps disperse melanin patches to reveal an even complexion underneath.

2. Can I use glycolic acid with salicylic acid?

   AHAs and BHAs, for instance, Glycolic acid and salicylic acid can be a great addition to your skincare routine. Being water soluble, glycolic acid helps to eliminate the dead skin cells at the surface of the skin.
   
   While salicylic acid’s oil-soluble nature makes it great for targeting dirt deep-set within the pores. Combining the two in higher concentrations may lead to irritation; hence, it is recommended to space out their applications in the week.

3. Is glycolic acid safe for all skin types?

   Due to the smaller molecular size of glycolic acid and its potency for exfoliation, glycolic acid can potentially irritate individuals with sensitive skin type. Therefore, it is best to begin with a low concentration of glycolic acid serum for appropriately targeting acne scars. In case of redness or dryness, consider reducing the frequency of application or consult a dermatologist for best results.

4. How often should I use glycolic acid?

   The frequency of using any exfoliant, here glycolic acid, depends on the concentration of the active and the skin tolerance of an individual. At the beginning, focus on including a low concentration glycolic acid product only once or twice (at night) in a week. Once your skin becomes more tolerant to the product, you may increase your frequency accordingly.

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• Nih.gov - Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation
• Nih.gov - pH-Dependent Antibacterial Activity of Glycolic Acid
• Nih.gov - Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
• Wiley - The clinical efficacy and tolerability of a novel triple acid exfoliating blend for reducing signs of photoaging in sensitive skin
• Sciencedirect - Glycolic Acid