Can Salicylic Acid Help Treat Acne? Benefits and Best Practices

On your search for products that manage active flare-ups or post-acne scars, you are quite likely to come across one of the industry favorites, salicylic acid. This is a revered beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that can be found in several over-the-counter and prescription skin care products for effectively managing acne-prone skin.

But how good is salicylic acid for acne and its scars? Through this article, we will help you understand the way the ingredient’s ability to inhibit acne triggers and ways that it can be optimally used in your skincare routine for clear, healthy skin.

Keynotes:

• Salicylic acid is a known beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), which is primarily used in skincare to exfoliate the skin.
• It helps regulate sebum production, reduce inflammation, and unclog pores.
• Start salicylic acid in lower concentrations in OTC products like face wash and serum for about 2-3 days a week to build tolerance and reduce irritation.
• Maintain consistent use of broad-spectrum sunscreen to avoid skin sensitivity, inflammation, and exacerbated hyperpigmentation.

Salicylic acid is an exfoliant that is often categorized as a phenolic or beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). It was first derived from the bark of the white willow tree and wintergreen leaves. The active ingredient has a rich history that dates back thousands of years, extracted essentially due to its analgesic property (pain remedy).

In recent years, salicylic acid has grown to become a skincare favorite due to its application as a topical agent for active flare-ups, acne scars and treating inflammation. To put into perspective, unlike alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) which work at the surface of your skin, BHAs such as salicylic acid are molecularly larger and take their time in seeping deeper. BHAs are essentially lipid soluble, which helps them bind with the oil in your pores, giving them a unique advantage to combat acne.

The concentration (initial 0.5-2%) at which salicylic acid is included in acne products on the market is often well tolerated by the skin. These deliver a gentle exfoliation with mild reactions like dryness or initial irritation, before your skin gets used to the product. Common skin pigmentations that are treated with salicylic acid include post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), melasma, acne, photodamage, freckles, texture and fine lines.

Let's understand what makes salicylic acid serum a treatment option for acne-prone skin:

Exfoliation and Cell Turnover

In terms of addressing exfoliating properties, salicylic acid acts as a desmolytic agent as opposed to weakening the outer layer of the skin cell (keratolytic property). This enables the acid to dissolve the bonds between the dead skin cells, loosening them rather than breaking the cells altogether.

Gradually, this disrupted bond leads to an efficient dead skin cell exfoliation, revealing a much more even-toned skin surface. With other actives such as niacinamide, thiamidol or vitamin C in your routine, these products can also effectively penetrate the healthy skin underneath. This helps boost the skin’s natural radiance and reduce the pigmentation of acne scars.

Blackheads, Whiteheads and Inflammation

Owing to salicylic acid's oil-soluble nature, it excels in targeting excess sebum and comedones. Its lipophilic property allows it to meld with the oil and wax esters on the skin and penetrate deeper into the pores.

This mechanism helps effectively dissolve excess sebum, cellular debris and comedones, the precursors of blackheads and whiteheads. It unclogs the pores over time and promotes sebum regulation, making salicylic acid a standout product for individuals with an oily skin type.

Beyond its comedolytic and desmolytic properties, salicylic acid has a positive influence on reducing inflammation. Research states that the active ingredient does so by interfering with a biochemical pathway linked to inflammation called the arachidonic acid cascade. In doing so, salicylic acid can potentially alleviate or lower mild to moderate swelling, redness and blemishes.

Now that we know how is salicylic acid good for acne scars, the next popular question amongst the masses is how to choose the right one. Selecting a skin care product for acne-prone skin is always accompanied by worries about minimizing potential irritation while ensuring its efficacy.

In general, over-the-counter salicylic acid products will have regulated concentrations (0.5% to 2%) for balancing effectiveness with tolerability. However, dermatologists may also prescribe higher concentrations of salicylic acid to individuals based on their skin conditions and type, upon consultation.

Some common salicylic acid products on the market are:

Face Wash

One of the most readily used products in the market for oily and acne-prone skin is a salicylic acid wash-off treatment. These have a lower concentration of the active ingredient, which ensures it can be used daily as a mild exfoliant without overwhelming delicate skin types, such as sensitive skin.

This treatment primarily targets impurities, buildup and sebum. It can also help minimize the resurgence of new blemishes over time. Pick a salicylic acid Cleanser that is non-comedogenic and does not dry out the skin.

Face Serum

Spot treatments or face serums usually feature salicylic acid in higher concentrations to offer a targeted remedy. This ensures the active ingredient penetrates deeper to regulate sebum production, unclog pores and reduce post-acne marks.

Individuals with an oily skin type or oily T-zone can greatly benefit from such acid serum as well to reduce overt greasiness and boost skin health.

When selecting a salicylic acid serum, look for products that incorporate soothing, gentle actives, such as hyaluronic acid, thiamidol or licorice root extract. Overnight treatments with such formulations can offset the potential dryness and boost the anti-inflammatory benefits of salicylic acid.

While salicylic acid serum can be exceptional for acne, exfoliants such as BHAs, AHAs and PHAs can cause irritation in general. This is more so in the case of sensitive skin types which is susceptible to redness, inflammation, swelling and dryness. Hence, for such skin types, it is best to begin with a single product like a face wash or a spot treatment with gentle ingredients for acne.

Using the product two to three times in a week will allow your skin to grow accustomed to the agent. Once the skin can tolerate the product well, you may increase the frequency after consulting your dermatologist.

Refrain from pairing all your exfoliants in the same night, it is a recipe for disaster. For instance, the night you are scheduled to apply your salicylic acid serum for acne, skip aggressive products such as high-concentration retinoids.

Always follow the targeted serum with a hydrating moisturiser with humectants and occlusives to potentially reduce the chances of redness, peeling or irritation. If you notice these symptoms, discontinue the use of the product immediately and consult with your healthcare provider.

Lastly, since exfoliation makes the skin sensitive towards environmental stressors, applying a broad spectrum sunscreen during the day is a must. This will keep your protected from the harsh UV radiation and prevent sunburn and hyperpigmentation.

So, the verdict? Yes, salicylic acid is a great ingredient for addressing acne and acne scars. Its ability to exfoliate, regulate sebum, unclog pores and reduce inflammation makes it a versatile agent in products targeting active flare-ups. Start slow and employ it strategically in your routine to achieve smooth, clear and refreshed skin over time.

1. Is salicylic acid safe for daily use?

   The way an active agent reacts to skin depends on the concentration, the tolerance and skin type. Hence, while it is true that salicylic acid is good for acne and scars, its suitability for daily use varies greatly. Individuals may use salicylic acid products daily once their skin can tolerate them in lower concentrations (0.5–2%). You may try including a gentle wash-off treatment daily while monitoring the skin for signs of dryness or peeling.

2. Does salicylic acid help with acne scars?

   Salicylic acid is extremely well received for acne scars as well as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). This is due to the active’s unique property to weaken the bonds between dead skin cells allowing for effective disposal of pigmentated ones. Consult your dermatologist before including other brightening ingredients into your skin care routine for optimal results.

3. Can I use it with other active ingredients?

   Salicylic acid can be generally used with other soothing active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide or ceramides. These help by maintaining the moisture balance and deterring any potential inflammation. However, it is recommended not to pair salicylic acid with retinoids, vitamin C, and other potent exfoliants to avoid adverse reactions.

4. Is salicylic acid good for back acne?

   Yes, salicylic acid can be a stellar agent for treating back acne. Bacne has the same properties as any facial acne and hence benefits greatly from salicylic acid's exfoliating tendencies. These help in dissolving comedones, unclog pores and treat excess sebum production, allowing gradual resolution. A specialized body wash, toner pads or lotion containing salicylic acid is generally administered to improve the health of the skin and reduce breakouts over time.

• FDA - Beta Hydroxy Acids
• NIH - Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review
• NIH - Salicylic acid treats acne vulgaris by suppressing AMPK/SREBP1 pathway in sebocytes
• NIH - Treatment of Acne Vulgaris With Salicylic Acid Chemical Peel and Pulsed Dye Laser
• NIH - Effectiveness of a combination of salicylic acid-based products for the treatment of mild comedonal-papular acne