The Right Way to Exfoliate (Without Damaging Your Skin)

Exfoliation makes it to every trending skincare routine, yet many never get it right. It’s either overdone, underdone, or not done at all. So, dive into this comprehensive, dermatology-backed, skincare guide that breaks down the high-risk and high-reward practice of exfoliation with a step-by-step guide on how to exfoliate skin.

Keynotes:

• Skin exfoliation is vital for removing dead skin cells, unclogging pores, and improving skin tone and texture.
• You can learn how to exfoliate skin using physical scrubs, chemical exfoliants (like AHAs, BHAs), or gentle enzymatic options depending on your skin type.
• The ideal frequency of skin exfoliation depends on your skin type. It could vary between 1 to 3 times a week based on your skin’s tolerance and product strength.
• Always follow post-care for skin exfoliation with moisturizers, humectants, and sun protection to prevent irritation and barrier damage.

Skin exfoliation is the process of removing the buildup of dead skin cells from the outermost layer of your skin. Often, exfoliators dissolve the bonds between these dead skin cells to accelerate shedding.

While your skin is supposed to shed the dead cells naturally (desquamation), a number of factors, be it ageing, sun damage, and environmental pollutants, can slow down this process. As a result, these dead skin cells begin to pile up, and your skin begins to look uneven or flaky. These dead skin cells can even clog your pores to cause acne, make your complexion appear dull, and can even reduce the absorption of serums and other skincare products you use.

Hence, exfoliating is crucial. This key skincare step helps you get smoother, clearer, and brighter skin. On the other hand, exfoliation usually involves harsh physical scrubs or concentrated chemical solutions that may overdry your skin, compromise your skin barrier, or trigger sensitivity and irritation. This is why learning how to exfoliate the face properly is crucial.

Despite its risks, exfoliation remains a crucial skincare step due to its numerous benefits, such as:

• Epidermal Regeneration:

  Approximately, your skin sheds 30,000 - 40,000 dead skin cells every day. This is a part of your skin’s natural 30-day turnover where dead skin cells are replaced by new, healthy ones. At times, this process may slow down due to aging or lifestyle factors, which is why skin exfoliation is crucial. It helps accelerate cell turnover and promotes epidermal regeneration.

• Removes Dullness:

  If your skin isn’t shedding dead cells naturally, it may begin to appear dull, patchy, and lifeless. Skin exfoliation helps you lift your skin tone and improve its texture by dissolving dead skin cells.

• Even-Toned Skin:

  Acne, dark spots, and melasma often leave you with persistent hyperpigmentation. Chemical skin exfoliation is known to fade and reduce the appearance of these marks to give you even-toned skin.

• Clear Skin and Pores:

  Exfoliation removes the buildup of dead skin cells, which may otherwise clog your pores and trigger acne, whiteheads, blackheads, and pimples. Learning how to exfoliate skin also helps you cleanse your face thoroughly, enabling better absorption of serums and moisturizers.

Up until a few years ago, loofahs, natural scrubs, microbeads, and brushes were the only physical exfoliators that were popularly used. However, chemical exfoliants have entered the world of skincare and transformed your options. Here’s all you need to know about both:

• Physical Exfoliation

  Physical exfoliants are manual tools or scrubs that use friction to dislodge dead skin cells to cause them to shed. Granular scrubs, created with beads or particles, are a common example of physical skin exfoliation. Sugar scrubs, apricot scrubs, and walnut scrubs are common examples. Additionally, body brushes, sponges, or cleansing cloths are also used to exfoliate, buff, and smooth the skin. However, these tools can be a bit harsh and can cause small injuries that compromise the barrier and irritate your skin. If brushes and loofahs are not cleansed regularly, they may even get contaminated by bacteria.

• Chemical Exfoliation

  As the name suggests, this type of skin exfoliation uses chemicals or skin actives to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells and increase cell turnover. According to their properties, chemical exfoliants are divided into multiple categories:

  • Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs):

    AHAs are water-soluble exfoliants that largely only function on the skin’s surface, since they cannot cut through the sebum on your skin. Glycolic acid and lactic acid are commonly used AHAs that treat dry, dull skin very gently, boost collagen, and improve your complexion.

  • Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs):

    BHAs are oil-soluble acids that can cut through sebum to deeply cleanse your pores. Salicylic acid, the most commonly used BHA, can go deeper into pores to regulate oiliness and prevent acne.

• Enzymatic Exfoliation

  Similar to chemical skin exfoliation, enzymatic exfoliation also dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells, but by using natural enzymes. Enzyme peels use bromelain (found in pineapples), ficin (found in figs), and papain (found in papayas) to give you smoother and more radiant skin. Enzymatic exfoliation is known to be more gentle than chemical or physical alternatives and is suited to acne-prone or sensitive skin.

Just like the rest of skincare, there’s no one-size-fits-all when it comes to exfoliation. This is why learning how to exfoliate skin gets sticky. For starters, identify your skin type and talk to your dermatologist if you have combination or sensitive skin. If your skin behaves predictably, you can follow these general rules for skin exfoliation -

However, the frequency of skin exfoliation also depends on the type of exfoliator you are using and how your skin reacts to it. If you are unable to find skin-friendly exfoliators, look for cleansing gels and toners with chemical exfoliants.

Step 1: Cleanse Gently
Cleanse your face with a pH-balanced, gel-based cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and impurities before exfoliating.

We Recommend: DermoPurifyer Triple Effect Cleansing Gel with Salicylic Acid

Step 2: Exfoliate
For chemical exfoliants, apply an even layer to clean, dry skin, avoiding the eyes and lips. Use physical exfoliants on damp skin and avoid harsh scrubbing. Follow the guidelines on packaging for optimum results.

Step 3: Tone
Use a pH-balanced, moisturizing toner to soothe and balance your skin.

We Recommend: DermoPurifyer Toner with Lactic Acid

Step 4: Treat
On your thoroughly cleansed skin, go on to use a few drops of gentle serums for radiant tone and hydration.

We Recommend: Anti-Pigment Skin Illuminating Serum with Thiamidol & Hyaluronic Acid

Step 5: Hydrate
Follow with a moisturizer containing humectants like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or barrier-repairing agents such as ceramides.

We Recommend: Anti-Pigment Day Care SPF30

Step 6: Protect
Skin exfoliation makes you more sensitive to UV damage. This is why using a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 50 or higher) is key for protection against sunburn and photoageing.

We Recommend: Sun Face Hydro Protect Ultra-Light Fluid SPF50+

Use a night cream instead of sunscreen if you’re exfoliating for your PM skincare routine.

• Avoid exfoliating immediately after shaving or any harsh hair removal processes.
• Do not go for skin exfoliation while using very strong skin actives like retinols. Talk to your dermatologist and build a routine that prevents overdrying.
• Avoid over-exfoliation to protect the acidic mantle of your skin and prevent irritation or increased sensitivity.
• Don't neglect post-care like sun protection and moisturizing to keep your skin shielded and hydrated.
• Never neglect patch tests. Use your chemical exfoliants on your neck or forearm to understand how well they suit your skin.

As long as you understand your skin type and its needs, learning how to exfoliate your face is easy. Follow the right precautions, start by using lower concentrations, and layer your exfoliation routine with gentle products by Eucerin.

1. How often should I exfoliate my face?

   The frequency of exfoliating your skin depends on your skin type. Those with oily skin can exfoliate 1–3 times per week, whereas those with dry skin can exfoliate only once a week. Consult your dermatologist to navigate a fool-proof skin exfoliation routine.

2. What’s the difference between physical and chemical exfoliation?

   Physical exfoliation uses friction and scrubbing to shed dead skin cells, while chemical exfoliants dissolve dead skin bonds using acids or enzymes.

3. Can over-exfoliating damage my skin?

   Yes. Over-exfoliating can damage the skin barrier, causing redness, irritation, increased sensitivity, and acne breakouts.

4. Should I exfoliate in the morning or at night?

   Exfoliating before bed is typically considered safer as your skin regenerates at night and is not immediately exposed to sunlight, which can irritate freshly exfoliated skin.

• Healthline – How Often Should You Exfoliate Your Face?
• American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) – How to Safely Exfoliate at Home
• Cleveland Clinic – Skin: Layers, Structure, and Function
• MDPI (Applied Sciences Journal) – Enzymatic-Based Exfoliation for Skin Treatment: A Review