Best Acids for Your Skincare Routine

Acids for skin are a rising topic that garners more interest and research day by day. Face acids, essentially, are increasingly popular in modern skincare because they target multiple issues, from anti-aging, pigmentation, dullness, to fine lines.

When used correctly, face acids can help exfoliate dead cells and promote a healthier-looking complexion. In order to do so, however, it is integral to know the different acids for skin, their properties and ways in which they may fit into your routine for long-term skin benefits.

Keynotes:

• Face acids are getting increasingly popular in skincare routines, offering solutions for a variety of concerns from aging and pigmentation to dullness and breakouts.
• Different types of acids include AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs, with each boosting properties for promoting skin exfoliation and health.
• For choosing the right acid, you need to understand your individual skin type, its tolerance and specific skin concerns.
• Employ facial acids into your skincare with a gradual approach, gentle products, strategic layering, and prioritizing skin barrier health to minimize irritation.

Acids in skincare are topical solutions that help boost the structure and health of the epidermis, the outermost part of your skin. With age, this layer tends to thin out due to internal factors or external factors like the environment. Paradoxically, the stratum corneum, which forms the very top layer of the epidermis and serves as the primary barrier, may thicken.

This dual phenomenon creates a cascade of visible changes that affect skin quality, making it noticeably rougher. During this, an individual may experience skin scaling and a compromised skin barrier function, contributing to visible signs of aging with time. This is where facial acids come to the rescue.

When incorporated into a balanced regimen, face acids can tackle issues like photoaging and textural irregularities. By promoting exfoliation and cellular turnover, they may help improve the look of fine lines and potentially enhance tone, elasticity, and skin hydration.

With consistent research and progress, the landscape of acids for the skin today extends far beyond the commonly recognized ascorbic acid (vitamin C), which dominated mainstream skincare discussions until a few years ago.

This awareness has led to the market being flooded with a diverse array of facial acids, each offering distinct molecular structures and corresponding benefits that address specific skin concerns. Some of which may include salicylic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, retinoic acid, azelaic acid, kojic acid, lactic acid, and ferulic acid, among others.

AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs

Most of these face acids fall into three main categories, such as the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), and Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs).

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs are water-soluble organic compounds derived from various natural sources. These acids, when applied topically to the skin's surface, encourage exfoliation of keratin protein, dirt and scales in the stratum corneum, allowing newer, healthier cells to emerge through.

The acid also boosts a plumping effect, promotes collagen production in fibroblasts, and improves the quality of elastic fibers in the skin. This results in an improved radiance and texture (fine lines), which can be observed with weeks of consistent use.

AHA-based face acids are often used for conditions such as ichthyosis, dry skin, various forms of keratoses, and follicular hyperkeratosis.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), most notably salicylic acid, are lipid-soluble compounds that possess the unique ability to penetrate through the sebaceous lipid layer within pores and follicular structures.

These acids are particularly effective for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin because they can reduce sebum oxidation and comedone formation while providing notable anti-inflammatory benefits. This potentially helps calm active breakouts and redness associated with inflammatory acne lesions.

Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are a third type of hydroxy acid and have a larger molecular structure. Due to this, compounds like gluconolactone and lactobionic acid provide gentler exfoliation, naturally slowing their penetration rates into the epidermis.

PHAs also possess humectant and antioxidant properties, which make them particularly suitable for individuals with sensitive or compromised skin barriers who cannot tolerate traditional AHAs or BHAs.

Lactic, Glycolic, Salicylic, and Mandelic Acid

Let's have a look at some of the common AHAs and BHAs used in skincare:

1. Lactic Acid

   This is an AHA, originally derived from sour milk, which functions as both an effective exfoliant and a humectant. It is ideal for reactive skin that experiences irritation with more aggressive acids.

2. Glycolic Acid

   It is famous for penetrating into the epidermis most effectively, reaching deeper layers than larger AHA molecules. GA is known for its anti-aging properties, potentially refining your skin’s texture.

3. Salicylic Acid

   This beta hydroxy acid possesses anti-inflammatory properties and effectively cleans the pores and clogged comedones, making it a good choice for those with blackheads, whiteheads, or oily-prone concerns.

4. Mandelic Acid

   Mandelic acid is an AHA derived from bitter almonds. It features a larger molecular structure than glycolic or lactic acid, resulting in the most gradual penetration among commonly used AHAs. You may use the topical agent for addressing hyperpigmentation and uneven tone, especially for oily skin types.

So, the question remains, among the different acids for skin on the market, which one should you choose? Let's make the selection easy for you. Picking the right acids for your skin ultimately comes down to your skin type, primary concern and its tolerance to active ingredients.

For instance, glycolic acid is a potent exfoliant recommended for those seeking anti-aging results, but it can be intense if overused. Lactic acid is a gentler option that is perfect for individuals with sensitive skin. Those dealing with acne, rosacea and dark patches can make use of azelaic acid for its multifactorial benefits.

On the other hand, individuals with combination skin may benefit from using salicylic acid in targeted zones such as the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) rather than applying it across the entire face. This allows you to customize your treatment without over-drying other areas. Such a convenience in shifting routines is recommended to avoid irritation.

Incorporating acids in skincare requires a gradual and patient approach that respects your skin's tolerance towards exfoliation. Any improper use or overdoing can compromise your barrier function and increase your skin’s sensitivity to environmental irritants. This can potentially worsen the very concerns you are attempting to address, creating a cycle of dysfunction and recovery that delays progress toward your skin goals. Most importantly, space out your face acids to minimize irritation.

Layering and Combining Acids in Skincare

• Begin with a wash-off formula like the DermoPurifyer Triple Effect Cleansing Gel as a gentle introduction to minimize contact time with the skin. This allows your skin to acclimate to the exfoliating effects before progressing.
• Once your skin is accustomed to the active, then you may gradually incorporate a serum or formulations such as DermoPurifyer Triple Effect Serum to target oiliness and breakouts.
• Space your skin actives strategically throughout the week without layering multiple different acids simultaneously, especially during the initial introduction phase when your skin is adjusting to increased exfoliation.
• For instance, avoid combining glycolic or lactic acids with ascorbic acid in the same routine to minimize inflammation. Likewise, be cautious when combining salicylic acid with niacinamide.
• To treat hyperpigmentation and boost radiance, you may incorporate the products from our Anti-Pigment range into your routine for the best results.
• Whenever you consider stronger peels or more complex layering strategies, consult a skincare professional to prevent adverse effects on the skin.

These acids for skin have transformed modern skincare by offering effective solutions for numerous skin concerns, such as uneven texture, fine lines, acne or even excess sebum. The expanse of facial acids on the market can help refine, rejuvenate, and brighten the surface. However, it is essential to choose one that suits your skin type and routine. With a structured approach and consistency, face acids can become reliable companions in your quest to maintain a more vibrant, resilient complexion.

1. What are the best acids for skin and their benefits?

   Some of the best acids for skin include glycolic acid for smoothing wrinkles, lactic acid for gentle exfoliation, salicylic acid for oily skin, and vitamin C for brightening. Each acid offers distinct molecular properties to target specific concerns and should be carefully selected to reduce irritation.

2. How to choose facial acids based on skin type?

   The best way to choose acids for your skin type is to match it to your primary skin concern. If you have sensitive skin, consider lactic acid or mandelic acid. For signs of aging, glycolic acid is great, salicylic acid is popular for oily or acne-prone complexions, azelaic acid may help with uneven patches and vitamin C is brilliant for boosting skin brightness.

3. What are the most common acids in skincare products?

   Common acids in skincare include glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Other popular options are mandelic acid, azelaic acid, niacinamide acid, hyaluronic acid and kojic acid.

• Researchgate - Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acids
• nih.gov - A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
• Sciencedirect - Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids
• nih.gov - Hydroxy Acids, the Most Widely Used Anti-aging Agents